Beach and Bats

"Toads, beetles, bats light on you!" --The Tempest

On Saturday (thankfully after church) we received the news that our house in Orem had been infested by bats.  Hundreds of bats.  Hundreds of mommy bats who were birthing their baby bats in our attic and water heater room.  Hundreds of protected bats which can't be trapped, killed, or otherwise hunted until after neonatal bat season is over, which is August 15 or September 1, depending on whom you ask.

Thanks to Paul and Diane, our amazing renters, the situation has improved since our first freak out on Saturday, but it still has not been completely resolved three days later.  But I promised myself this would not be a complaining blog, so....

In the happy category, we were able to get rid of the ants in our apartment (memo to me: don't leave crummy pizza boxes on the floor for three days) by spraying all the baseboards with a stinky chemical and hitting the beach for the rest of the day.  At least ants aren't a protected species.  We had a nice day, complete with a trip to IKEA.

The Tel Aviv IKEA sells hotdogs or falafels for 5 shekels, with tahina sauce next to the ketchup and mustard.

More about the beach:  We went to Palmahim, near Bat Yam (The little Esplin kids called it Bat Man Beach.  I was feeling a little sensitive about bats at the moment and didn't appreciate the joke as much as I will later, much later, several thousand dollars later if we want to do the job right and seal all the 1/4 inch gaps around my house.  Or several hundred dollars if we just want to make it more bat-proof than the neighbors' house. Okay, that's the end of the complaining.)

Our kids sunburn easily, so you will notice that they are the ones fully clothed over their swim suits.  It does not make me the most popular mom of the day, but we made it through with no sunburns.  Some other bathers were covered for religious reasons, mostly Jewish headscarves, but there were a few Muslim bathers within sight as well.

If you look closely, you can see Emily's shark sculpture. 

The weather was perfect, warm air, medium warm water, cool breezes just when you need them, a great getaway as school is getting underway.

Emily made a tunnel in the sand.

When we returned the chemical smell was almost gone, and the ants haven't return.  Even our insect bites have lessened.  Hmmm.

After the kids were in bed, I saw something pink and fast darted across the kitchen.  I corralled this tiny gecko into a corner and carried it outside for a late night photo shoot on the balcony.

So the indoor critter count right now is:
huge spiders- 1 (caught and released last week)
geckos- 1 (assuming this was the same one under the couch this morning)
ants: 600 or 0, depending on when you start counting
bats:  who knows?
Not complaining--it's kind of a fun challenge to catch the little beasties and send them on their way.

I was grateful for the resources to get away for a few hours before returning to the school schedule and the whirlwind of students coming.  Each day I feel more at home here, and yet each day I realize how much there is to learn.  Today we spent the morning in the old city, and I'm still disoriented in all the same places as before.  Again, not complaining--the old city is definitely a fun challenge, like a chess game where you don't really know what's after the next turn.  But on the other hand, it's not hard to know more than the students as we help them this first week.  

Tuesday we went all over the Old City.  Here are some highlights:
Jewish Sites: Hurva Synagogue, Jewish quarter with exquisite art and reconstructed Roman street
Christian sites: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Via Dolorosa (the way of suffering commemorating the last few hours of the Savior's life), Greek Orthodox Church of John the Baptist, Chapel of Austrian Hospice
Muslim sites: (seen from a distance) Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque, Mosque of Omar, and countless smaller mosques and domed houses in the Muslim quarter.

Fun side note about the Mosque of Omar, apparently the Caliph Omar was invited to pray in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the 7th century A.D. (Muslims venerate Jesus as a prophet) but he declined, stating that if he entered and prayed, his followers would feel compelled to tear down the church and build a mosque instead, so he prayed across the street, in honor of this legend, the Mosque of Omar stands just south of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  It's a nice story.  I don't know if it's true, but there's a lesson in there.

It seems like every stone has a story here.  Years ago as workers were fixing underground sewers in the old city, they uncovered ten feet below the surface a road of huge stones, worn smooth by the passage of thousands of feet.  They determined that this was the Roman-era road, 2000+ years old, and raised and embedded several of the huge stones in the current road.  So we can truly walk on stones where Jesus likely walked.  But like President Thomas S. Monson said in October 2014,
"Physically walking where Jesus walked is less important than walking as He walked. Emulating His actions and following His example are far more important than trying to retrace the remnants of the trails He traversed in mortality....  All of us can walk the path He walked when, with His words ringing in our ears, His Spirit filling our hearts, and His teachings guiding our lives, we choose to follow Him as we journey through mortality. His example lights the way. "

So, that settles it, no more complaining!

Western Wall, Sabbath visit to Gethsemane

First things first: Random photos which don't fit elsewhere:  Pop Rocks Chocolate!.  It's not a favorite of gourmet chocolate connoisseurs (you know who you are) but my kids think it's a lot of fun. 

Mealworms are not kosher, so this package guarantees there will be no worms so the Jewish homemaker doesn't have to worry about resifting the flour.

Friday night the Judds and Esplins went through the heart of the old city to the Western Wall.  Lisa was practicing her head scarf fashions so she could look chic at the plaza at sundown.

The kids were all excited to depart from the lower gate.  There was a lot of scary trash just outside our lower gate, as the locals use this area for a bus stop and picnic area.

Amanda has been working out a lot in P.E.!  Take it easy, Amanda!

The view back toward the BYU Jerusalem Center from just outside the old city walls.

Damascus gate is a fun entry point on the north of the city, usually very busy with vendors and foot traffic.  We saw a cart come careening down the hill on the right, then the "driver" stepped on a tire hanging from a chain to slow it down.  Tonight the gate was quieter with many closed shops and light crowds, but there were still tons of interesting sights and smells to greet the children as we walked.

We had a very nice experience at the Western Wall.   No photos at the Western Wall once the Sabbath begins.  We all got to touch the massive, ancient stones and pray with hundreds of others who were welcoming in the Sabbath.  I waited to touch the wall behind a female Israeli soldier in full uniform who wore her  semiautomatic weapon slung on her back.  Quite an interesting juxtaposition, prayer and weapons, but I guess they're in close proximity in the Bill of Rights, too.   In addition to those silently swaying, books in front of faces, lips moving to the cadence of ancient Hebrew, we saw many who welcomed the Sabbath more vigorously, singing, linking arms and swaying, or dancing joyously.  I thought, how can I bring that spirit of anticipation and joy into our family's Sabbath?

Speaking of Sabbath, we have four young women in our branch, all from the Judd and Ludlow families, so it was nice to have a visitor from South Africa, Genevieve, at church that day.

The Jerusalem Center has many beautiful garden areas for contemplating the beauties of nature and plants of Biblical importance.  We took some group photos on our Second Sabbath here.

Below is an ancient olive crushing wheel.  A lot of the oil is released when the pit is crushed, so this heavy wheel would have been turned, probably by animals, to completely pulverize the olives.

 Lisa is holding the youngest Esplin, a very cheerful little boy who doesn't mind long car or stroller rides and smiles at everyone.

After the photo shoot, we went to the Church of All Nations on the Mount of Olives.  This is located on the traditional site of the Gethsemane, which means the olive press.  The gardener told us the roots of the trees are very old and probably go back 2000 years.  Olive trees send up new growth from the roots which can then be transplanted elsewhere, so the essence of the old trees is preserved in the young shoots rather than just in the seeds.  The Church of All Nations has a dark, starry mosaic ceiling and a cool, dark interior, reminiscent of the night when the Savior suffered for our sins while his exhausted disciples succumbed to sleep.  Christian congregations from around the world donated to the construction of this church, and flag insignias dot the ceiling mosaics.  Christ's atonement truly is for all people, all around the world, and it is heartwarming to see how the combined efforts of Christians around the world helped create this peaceful place of contemplation.

From Gethsemane, we walked up a steep hill to Dominus Flevit, commemorating the place where the Savior looked out over Jerusalem and lamented that so few would listen to his message and be spared from the calamities to come.  He would have gathered them to safety like a mother hen, but most went their own way.  I am grateful for the principles of the Gospel that will connect us to Christ and help shelter us from storms, or give us strength to keep us afloat during them.

The view from Dominus Flevit.

The setting sun fills the tiny tear-drop inspired chapel through an ornate window.

This is Amanda's thoughtful face.  She is a very thoughtful person.

Off to the south, a Jewish cemetery silently waits for a prophesied day of messianic judgement. Stones, rather than flowers, show that the loved one is still thought of and remembered.

Later on in the evening, our teen daughters met youth from the Tel Aviv branch at a seminary fireside.  Margaret Ludlow was just called to be the seminary teacher, so she will prepare daily lessons for the 14 and older crowd on the New Testament.  What a great course of study for this location!

School begins!

Wednesday morning, bright and early (actually 10:15 pm Utah time) eight beautiful kids are ready for their first day at the Anglican International School of Jerusalem.  A contracted shuttle bus drove them through the busy streets (thanks, Hassan!) and we heard good reports of meeting new kids, seeing old friends, and getting on the librarian's good side.  Lisa was praised for remembering how to write in Arabic.  Amanda learned several letters and words in Hebrew.  Emily was happy to have chocolate cake in honor of her teacher's birthday.

While the kids were in school, the mommies went out in the city to explore.  It's always an adventure!

From left to right, Janice Esplin, Tommy, Margaret Ludlow, and myself.  Jeanna Huff was behind the camera.

Zuni's has excellent French toast and omelettes.  It is an upscale restaurant in the Israeli section of town, and one of the few places that will serve bacon.  A glass of orange juice cost $3.50.

After breakfast, we checked out the mall and shopped at Super Deal, where they sell taco shells, guacamole mix, and Pringles.  Like many stores here, Super Deal doesn't refrigerate their eggs, you can buy milk in bags, and labels are mostly in Hebrew.    

I am grateful for the use of a car to bring home all our groceries.  Most people here take public transportation and have their large grocery orders delivered to their homes.  Even if that were an option, I would still need to schlep it all down two flights of stairs, which is not too bad because the elevator reaches my floor.  Last time we were here we had the luxury suite on the first floor, so it was seven flights of stairs, five without elevator access.  

By the way, if you want to learn the Hebrew letter of the day,  It's shin/sin ("sheen" or "seen") and it says "sh" or "s" depending on the placement of a dot, which is usually omitted.  Shin looks like this: ש.  Shin is the first letter in the word Shalom, and also shampoo, which makes it a very useful letter when you're in the shower trying to decide between two bottles of creamy colorful stuff.  

Also on Wednesday, I had the pleasure of meeting Rana Qumsiyeh, the cousin of my dear friend Sahar.  Sahar is usually is a pillar in the branch and district, but she is currently teaching at BYU-Idaho (and I hear she is working on a book!).  Rana (whose name in Arabic means to gaze ahead)  works just a few blocks away at World Vision gathering funds to help children in distress in Gaza and the West Bank.  Rana enjoyed seeing the view and asked me take a photo in the same spot where Sahar had stood years before.  She also enjoyed the ancient olive press on the grounds.  Olives are still a way of life here for many, only now the machinery is stainless steel and fully automated.  I felt like I had know Rana for a long time, she reminded me so much of Sahar and had such a gracious personality.  We had a lovely visit  with the promise of more to come.

 We look forward to the students coming soon!  It is fun to have this big beautiful building (and amazingly complex city) to explore, but it will really come to life next week when our seventy new best friends arrive.  It will help fill some of the emptiness of our best friends in the States being so far away.  It really is in our relationships with people that we feel the love of Heavenly Father, both for us personally, and for those we reach out to.  Maybe reaching out to other people here on earth fills some of that celestial aching that our spirits feel being so far away from our Heavenly Father.

The Third Time Around! Arriving at Jerusalem

Well, here we go again for our third stay in Jerusalem!  I am glad they keep letting us return; but this time is different because my two college kids will be staying behind to attend BYU.  So my heart is in two places.  We said goodbye to Megan and Carrie at the SLC airport and they drove our cars home.  There were hugs and a few tears and promises to video chat weekly.  

Ten checked bags plus 5 carry-ons plus 5 personal items, a little overwhelming even though it's less than previous trips.  A big thank you to those who helped us survive the last few crazy weeks of preparation,especially Lisa Merrill and Robert Francis and the Craig crew who helped us late into the night before we left.

The trip went smoothly, 18 hours from first lift off to last touch down.  We met up with the Esplins and their four children in Salt Lake City, and we look forward to getting to know them better this year. The stewardess handing Amanda and Emily's drinks said, "Sprites for Santa and the Shark."

 In New York, we met up with the Ludlows and enjoyed their company.

 Roy and Jeanna Huff met us at the airport and together with our friends in the Jerusalem Center Security Staff, escorted us to our new home.  This is an apartment we hadn't stayed in before, so here are a few photos.  There is a nice living room area which opens into the kitchen.  The patio surrounded by rose bushes looks out over the city

 I love the quiet-closing cabinets throughout the apartment.  We arrived on a Friday evening, with no chance to shop, so some food staples were provided for us, and we felt very graciously welcomed.  The apartment has the ability to adjoin the next suite over, but the connecting door is sealed off at the moment, and thankfully not even noise from flute practice seems to reach our neighbors.

 The bathrooms have been updated, very bright and modern looking, with distinctive tile around the mirrors.  And slam-free cabinets. Even the toilet lid lowers itself quietly.  The powder room is below:

 And below is bathroom  number 2 with a shower/tub.  So far, as of day four, sharing one shower has not really been a problem.

 Lisa's room is quite small, but this loft bed makes good use of the space. There is a deep closet on the wall to the left as well as a bulletin board.

 Amanda and Emily share this room below with bunk beds and a walk in closet off to the left.  We arrived around dinner time, unpacked a little, then most everyone went to bed about 9 and woke up around 2 or 3 am.  The early wakings are starting to taper off by now, four days later.

 The master bedroom has a patio door, nice bedside tables with lights, and an entire wall of cabinetry off to the right.

The day after we arrived was the Sabbath (Saturday), which was a real delight. There's nothing like singing hymns about the Savior while looking over the city where he suffered, died, and rose from the dead.  Actually, I was recovering from laryngitis, so I couldn't really sing yet, but I did get to play the piano for primary.  The oldest two Judd girls and the two Ludlow girls are the only teens in the branch, but there were about six other kids in primary besides Emily and the Esplin kids.  Two of our caregiver friends are still in town, but most other friends from the branch have moved.  Saturday evening we connected with Megan and Carrie, and they are adjusting well to our absence and their new upstairs neighbors, Paul and Diane Epperson and their two kids.  Diane is my sister's sister-in-law and a very dear friend, and I am glad to have her watching over things in our absence.  

We spent Sunday shopping in East and West Jerusalem.  I got to drive, which is quite the adrenaline rush and very fun as long as I have someone along to navigate.  We drove right through the heart of the Jewish section of town to a store which carried Kirkland dried blueberries and many American brands.  We were grateful for any English subtitles on packages as we struggled to tell the difference between the chicken nuggets and the corn-filled schnitzel.  Or the plain vs. flavored yogurt, and dozens of other little decisions.  Then we drove to the Palestinian section of town for chicken and beef, which was ground right in front of us, and fresh fruits and vegetables.  Frank was glad to see the plums are in season.  

We get our pita at a little store up a narrow alley near Saladin street, and the employees will usually give visitors a free sample.  My pita was really hot, and I accidentally dropped it on the floor.  The teenaged employee graciously said in very good English, "That's okay," then picked up my pita and handed it back to me.  I just smiled and held it until we got back to the car, then eventually threw it away and ate a different one.

On Monday, we gathered up the kids and headed to the Anglican school to meet homeroom teachers and help everyone feel comfortable before school really begins on Wednesday.  Most kids liked the new cafeteria's pizza and some saw friends they had met years before.  They are happy to have access to the Library, especially the younger kids whose Harry Potter fetish was interrupted in the middle of the Half-Blood Prince.

Later on Monday night, for family home evening, we drove with the Esplins and Ludlows to an overlook of Jerusalem,took photos, and talked about the importance of this little spot of land.  Why Jerusalem?  It's a land of challenges and obstacles, but also a land of covenants and opportunities.   Psalm 125:2 says, "As the mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the LORD is round about his people from henceforth even for ever."  I think the Lord knew that here, his people would have the right amount of challenges to keep them humble, such as the arid climate and centuries of external rule, and the right amount of opportunities to accomplish his work, such as the strategic location at the crossroads of the ancient world, where disciples of Christ could spread the good news  throughout the Roman world.  I believe God puts us each where we can be stretched and tested and also feel involved and useful to him in his work.  I am already feeling that out-of-comfort zone feeling, and I look forward to finding out how I can be a benefit to those around me this year.  

Then we finished off the day with falafels, the Middle Eastern version of fast food.  At the tiny falafel shop on Lekhi street (like Lehi with a gutteral "h"), we ordered falafels in pitas with pickles, cabbage, french fries, hummus, and tahina.  They were 10 shekels each (about $2.50).  To yummy to eat in a tidy way!

 Spencer Esplin wasn't a big fan of falafel, but he did love the Palestinian dance music playing on the restaurant's tv.  He imitated the dancers on the screen, to the delight of the owner, who turned the volume up high and gave us some free french fries.

Olivewood

My friend Mohammad Al-Shiabbat shared with me the link for his website, www.genuineolivewood.com.  Prices aren't listed, but there is a local American phone number you can call for price inquiries.  Mohammad is a Palestinian who joined the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormon Church) years ago while in America and is currently raising his family in Bethlehem.  He has been a gracious host to us in the past and would be happy to help you order carved olivewood pieces from his local suppliers in Bethlehem.